PLANT DYES

PLANT DYES

DIVE DEEPER INTO THE MASTERY OF THE PLANT DYE TECHNIQUES THAT ARE USED TO CREATE OUR PRODUCTS!


Annatto

The dye is prepared by maceration of seed with addition of castor oil, sapindus seed extract in water. The pulpy dye matter which overcoat the seed is removed. The dye extract is filtered enough to free from un dissolved scummy matter and seed particles.

The clear dye solution is poured in dye bath. During the course of dyeing, salt, sour milk, plantain leaf juices are added for desired effect. The material dyed is thoroughly washed and finished with vegetable oil for softening.

Possible shades, various tones of Golden Yellow

Madder

The dye present in micro scale cells of stem, root part of the plant. The stem and root stock are made to powder fine and soaked overnight in whey water and the dissolved dye is separated. The material is soaked next in rice tart, kept over night and separated dye is decanted and preserved. This alternate process is repeated successively thrice in each solution and boiled finally to extract the dye at optimum level.

The separated dye solutions are added together and used for dyeing. During dyeing, plantain ash, cane sugar, vegetable oils are added at requisite intervals and washed thoroughly.

Possible Shade: Scarlet to dull Maroon tones (depends on vessel, water used for dyeing, dyeing duration etc.,)

Kumkum

The dye is prepared by combining turmeric rhizomes, lime water, alum together; put in mud pot and buried underground for considerable length of period (say six month for a scarlet or pink dye producing material and extended up to twenty four months for red or maroon colours) The rhizomes with succumb to pressure, temperature and moisture of soil, bio- chemicals reaction undergone in pot. All could play to turning the ingredients into termite mound matter inside the pot that is cleaned, sieved and used for dyeing.

While dyeing, plantain ash, cane sugar, rice tart are added to get a desired depth of shade.

Possible Shade: Pink, Red & Maroon tones.

Marigold

The dye present in flower petals. The petals are separated, exposed and cured sunlight & moon light successively for 7 to 8 days. Then dew water is added and wet ground thoroughly. The dye that oozing out from ground matter is separated. Dew water is added again and again in a proportionate volume and the oozy is collected.

This process repeated for three to four times until the extraction of dye is optimal. The separated dye oozes are mixed into dye bath. During dyeing plantain ash, cane sugar and vegetable oils are added to strengthen the dye.

Possible shade: Yellows to orange

Tacoma

The dye present in bell shaped flowers. The handpicked flowers are dried in sun and moonlight successively for 3 days each. Then it is soaked in rainwater and ground thoroughly to extract colour. During dyeing, milk, plantain sap and vegetables oils are added for specialized appeal and finish of dyed material.

Possible Shade: Soft Lemon Yellow tones.

Palash

The dye present in flower that require alkaline medium for complete dye extraction. We use ash of burnt coco palm leaves and the fermented concoction made of baked lentils, Urad dhal, Dhoor dhal and Green gram. The combination of these could make the colour with good fastness.

During dyeing we add plantain sap, rice tart and vegetable oil, which would strengthen the dye further and sheen of dyed material.

Possible Shade: Rose & Orangish tones.

Possible Shade: Gold to Orange tones

Delphinium

The dye is extracted from shade-dried flowers, which was aged and curved in paddy husk for certain length of time. The flower stock so prepared is soaked in rain water for about 6 to 24 hours depends on pre dried condition and urgency to dye.

Then it is being crushed to separate dye and boiled at low temperature to extract the dye completely. The extract is poured in dye bath. During dyeing, honey, rice tart, plantain ash are added and finally finished with vegetable oil in water for softening. To dye 1kg material, at least 3 to 4 Kgs of dry flowers or 8-10Kgs of fresh flowers are required.

Possible Shades: Blue (Reddish) tones.

Clitoria

The dye present more in soft edges of flower petals, which is hand, picked separately and crushed with rice wash water and filtered. During dyeing plantain sap, sour milk ,cane sugar and rise tart are added at various stages to get effective dyed results.

To dye one kilogram of fiber or fabric material for a visible blue shade, at least 5-6 kgs of fresh flowers are required.

Possible shade: Bluer tones (with slightly greener or grey tinge).

Vembadam

The dye is present in spirally coiled bark inner and outside cell wall. The dye is sensitive to acid and alkalis. The material is soaked in rice tart and calcium lime solutions alternatively in a sequence of at cold, mild heat and finally boiled thoroughly. The extraction process took longer duration that of velvelam bark.

Possible Shade: 
Various tones of Purple , Plum in acid medium of dyeing.

Various tones of Grey, Dull Bluer and Black in alkaline medium of dyeing

Greens

Karungali

The dye is prepared from its leaves. The fresh leaves being smashed along with little aloe juice and iron earth crust by wooden pestle and the sap ooze out is separated. The dark thick sap obtained is fermented afterwards in mud pot with addition of jiggery, lime solution for about 7 – 8 days.

Possible shades: Olive Grey to Black tones.

Myrobalon

The dye present in leaf galls in complex form as both water and fat-soluble matter with higher extent of tannins. The galls are made into grits and soaked first in rainwater over night and wet ground to extract dye solutes. Then it is wet ground again with buffalo milk and water together and the dye solute is separated.

This extraction process is repeated in rainwater, milk solution with mild heat and boiling hot temperature respectively and finally all separated solutes are put together in dye bath. During dyeing plantain leaf ash, cane sugar is added for effective fixation of dye and for level dyeing.                                                                                                                       

Velvelam

The dye present in micro scale cells of thick bark. We make the bark into coarse grain material and soak in different types water in the order of Lotus pond water, Rock hole seep, Puddle water, Spring water, Rain water and finally in Tender coconut water. The material being whirled and waved in each water individually and the solution is separated.

Wedelia

The dye present in Whole plant except its flowers. The leaves and stem are pounded with wooden pestle with sprinkling of dew water and ground to extract the solution fully. The solution separated is fortified with lotus leaves juice and slaked lime (Lime made of sea shells) and aged for 7 to 8 days. The solution when turn as dark granite green moss is an indication that it is ready to be used as dye.

During dyeing plantain sap, wood ash is used for desired effects.

Possible Shade: Black

Annatto

The dye is prepared by maceration of seed with addition of castor oil, sapindus seed extract in water. The pulpy dye matter which overcoat the seed is removed. The dye extract is filtered enough to free from un dissolved scummy matter and seed particles.

The clear dye solution is poured in dye bath. During the course of dyeing, salt, sour milk, plantain leaf juices are added for desired effect. The material dyed is thoroughly washed and finished with vegetable oil for softening.

Possible shades, various tones of Golden Yellow

Madder

The dye present in micro scale cells of stem, root part of the plant. The stem and root stock are made to powder fine and soaked overnight in whey water and the dissolved dye is separated. The material is soaked next in rice tart, kept over night and separated dye is decanted and preserved. This alternate process is repeated successively thrice in each solution and boiled finally to extract the dye at optimum level.

The separated dye solutions are added together and used for dyeing. During dyeing, plantain ash, cane sugar, vegetable oils are added at requisite intervals and washed thoroughly.

Possible Shade: Scarlet to dull Maroon tones (depends on vessel, water used for dyeing, dyeing duration etc.,)

Kumkum

The dye is prepared by combining turmeric rhizomes, lime water, alum together; put in mud pot and buried underground for considerable length of period (say six month for a scarlet or pink dye producing material and extended up to twenty four months for red or maroon colours) The rhizomes with succumb to pressure, temperature and moisture of soil, bio- chemicals reaction undergone in pot. All could play to turning the ingredients into termite mound matter inside the pot that is cleaned, sieved and used for dyeing.

While dyeing, plantain ash, cane sugar, rice tart are added to get a desired depth of shade.

Possible Shade: Pink, Red & Maroon tones.

Marigold

The dye present in flower petals. The petals are separated, exposed and cured sunlight & moon light successively for 7 to 8 days. Then dew water is added and wet ground thoroughly. The dye that oozing out from ground matter is separated. Dew water is added again and again in a proportionate volume and the oozy is collected.

This process repeated for three to four times until the extraction of dye is optimal. The separated dye oozes are mixed into dye bath. During dyeing plantain ash, cane sugar and vegetable oils are added to strengthen the dye.

Possible shade: Yellows to orange

Tacoma

The dye present in bell shaped flowers. The handpicked flowers are dried in sun and moonlight successively for 3 days each. Then it is soaked in rainwater and ground thoroughly to extract colour. During dyeing, milk, plantain sap and vegetables oils are added for specialized appeal and finish of dyed material.

Possible Shade: Soft Lemon Yellow tones.

Palash

The dye present in flower that require alkaline medium for complete dye extraction. We use ash of burnt coco palm leaves and the fermented concoction made of baked lentils, Urad dhal, Dhoor dhal and Green gram. The combination of these could make the colour with good fastness.

During dyeing we add plantain sap, rice tart and vegetable oil, which would strengthen the dye further and sheen of dyed material.

Possible Shade: Rose & Orangish tones.

Delphinium

The dye is extracted from shade-dried flowers, which was aged and curved in paddy husk for certain length of time. The flower stock so prepared is soaked in rain water for about 6 to 24 hours depends on pre dried condition and urgency to dye.

Then it is being crushed to separate dye and boiled at low temperature to extract the dye completely. The extract is poured in dye bath. During dyeing, honey, rice tart, plantain ash are added and finally finished with vegetable oil in water for softening. To dye 1kg material, at least 3 to 4 Kgs of dry flowers or 8-10Kgs of fresh flowers are required.

Possible Shades: Blue (Reddish) tones.

Clitoria

The dye present more in soft edges of flower petals, which is hand, picked separately and crushed with rice wash water and filtered. During dyeing plantain sap, sour milk ,cane sugar and rise tart are added at various stages to get effective dyed results.

To dye one kilogram of fiber or fabric material for a visible blue shade, at least 5-6 kgs of fresh flowers are required.

Possible shade: Bluer tones (with slightly greener or grey tinge).

Vembadam

The dye is present in spirally coiled bark inner and outside cell wall. The dye is sensitive to acid and alkalis. The material is soaked in rice tart and calcium lime solutions alternatively in a sequence of at cold, mild heat and finally boiled thoroughly. The extraction process took longer duration that of velvelam bark.

Possible Shade: 
Various tones of Purple , Plum in acid medium of dyeing.

Various tones of Grey, Dull Bluer and Black in alkaline medium of dyeing

Greens

Karungali

The dye is prepared from its leaves. The fresh leaves being smashed along with little aloe juice and iron earth crust by wooden pestle and the sap ooze out is separated. The dark thick sap obtained is fermented afterwards in mud pot with addition of jiggery, lime solution for about 7 – 8 days.

Possible shades: Olive Grey to Black tones.

Myrobalon

The dye present in leaf galls in complex form as both water and fat-soluble matter with higher extent of tannins. The galls are made into grits and soaked first in rainwater over night and wet ground to extract dye solutes. Then it is wet ground again with buffalo milk and water together and the dye solute is separated.

This extraction process is repeated in rainwater, milk solution with mild heat and boiling hot temperature respectively and finally all separated solutes are put together in dye bath. During dyeing plantain leaf ash, cane sugar is added for effective fixation of dye and for level dyeing.

Possible Shade: Khaki and Olive tones.                                                                                                                         

Velvelam

The dye present in micro scale cells of thick bark. We make the bark into coarse grain material and soak in different types water in the order of Lotus pond water, Rock hole seep, Puddle water, Spring water, Rain water and finally in Tender coconut water. The material being whirled and waved in each water individually and the solution is separated.

Wedelia

The dye present in Whole plant except its flowers. The leaves and stem are pounded with wooden pestle with sprinkling of dew water and ground to extract the solution fully. The solution separated is fortified with lotus leaves juice and slaked lime (Lime made of sea shells) and aged for 7 to 8 days. The solution when turn as dark granite green moss is an indication that it is ready to be used as dye.

During dyeing plantain sap, wood ash is used for desired effects.

Possible Shade: Black


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